Friday, 21 February 2020

Vogue Magazine - part 3

Vogue is a fashion and lifestyle magazine covering many topics including fashion, beauty, culture, living, and runway. Vogue began as a weekly newspaper in 1892 in the United States, before becoming a monthly publication years later.
The British Vogue was the first international edition launched in 1916, while the Italian version Vogue Italia has been called the top fashion magazine in the world. As of today, there are 23 international editions.
In 1892, Arthur Baldwin Turnure, an American businessman, founded Vogue as a weekly newspaper in the United States. From its inception, the magazine targeted the new New York upper class. The magazine at this time was primarily concerned with fashion, with coverage of sports and social affairs included for its male readership.
 Condé Montrose Nast purchased Vogue in 1909 one year before Turnure's death, and gradually grew the publication. He changed it to a unisex magazine and started Vogue overseas in the 1910s. Under Nast, the magazine soon shifted its focus to women, and in turn the price was soon raised. The magazine’s number of publications and profit increased dramatically under Nast’s management. By 1911, the Vogue brand had garnered a reputation that it continues to maintain, targeting an elite audience and expanding into the coverage of weddings. According to Condé Nast Russia, after the First World War made deliveries in the Old World impossible, printing began in England. The decision to print in England proved to be successful causing Nast to release the first issue of French Vogue in 1920.


This is part 3 of a 12-part series on Vogue magazine.
For earlier magazines see parts 1 & 2 also.



1914 February 1
Cover by George Wolfe Plank

1914 February 15
Forecast of Spring Fashions
Cover by Frank X. Leyendecker

1914 March 1
Spring Pattern Number
Cover by Helen Dryden

1914 March 15
Spring Millinery
Cover by George Wolfe Plank

1914 March 15 
Reference photograph for the above cover

1914 April 1
Spring Fashions Number
Cover by Helen Dryden

1914 May 15
Brides' Number
Cover by George Wolfe Plank

1914 June 1
Summer Fashions Number
Cover by Helen Dryden

1914 June 15
European and Travel Number
Cover by George Wolfe Plank

1914 7 July 1
Hot Weather Fashions
Cover by Helen Dryden

1914 July 15
Special Features for the Hostess
Cover by Helen Dryden

1914 August 1
The Season in London and Paris
Cover by Helen Dryden

1914 August 15
Children's Fashions for the Autumn
Cover by George Wolfe Plank

1914 November 1
What the Shops are Showing
Cover by George Wolfe Plank

1914 November 15
Vanity Number
Cover by Helen Dryden

1914 December 1
Christmas Gifts Number
Cover artist unknown

1914 December 15Christmas Gifts Number
Cover by Helen Dryden

1915 January 15
Motor and Southern
Cover by Margaret B. Bull

1915 February 1
Spring Fabrics and Fashions
Cover by Helen Dryden

1915 April 1
The Judgement of Paris Openings
Artist unknown

1915 April 1
Spring Fashions Number
Cover by Helen Dryden

1915 April 5
Smart Fashions for Limited Incomes
Cover by George Wolfe Plank

1915 June 1
Summer Fashions Nmber
Cover by Helen Dryden

1915 July 1
Hot Weather Fashions
Cover by Helen Dryden

1915 July 15
Cover by Margaret B. Bull

1915 August 15
Children's Number
Cover by Sydney Joseph


Sydney Joseph (1876-1950) was born in the Palace Hotel, San Francisco, California. In 1906 he was working in London. In 1926 he studied at the Ecole des Beaux-Arts in Paris and in Rome, and returned to San Francisco in 1932, where he stayed for the remainder of his life. As well as Vogue magazine, he worked as an illustrator for the San Francisco Chronicle and as a portrait painter.


1915 September 15
Millinery Number
Cover by Helen Dryden

1915 October 1
Paris Openings Number
 Cover by Irma Campbell

1915 October 10
Autumn Pattern Number
Cover by Helen Dryden

1915 November 1
Winter Fashions Number
Cover by George Wolfe Plank

1915 December 1
Christmas Gifts Number
Cover by Robert McQuinn

1916 January 1
Cover by Irma Campbell

1916 January 15
Motor & Southern Fashions
Cover by Helen Dryden

1916 February 15
Spring Millinery Number
Cover by Helen Dryden

1916 March 1
Spring Pattern Number
Cover by Helen Dryden

1916 March 15
Paris Openings Number
Cover by Robert E. Locher


Robert E. Locher (1888-1956) was born in Lancaster, Pennsylvania. He spent the majority of his career travelling between cities such as New York, Philadelphia, Paris, and his hometown. Upon moving to New York City he started gaining a reputation for his theatre and costume designs as well as illustrations in major publications including Vogue, Vanity Fair, Town & Country and House & Garden. He was hired by Baron Adolph de Meyer, Vogue’s first staff photographer, to work at his interior design firm and Locher quickly became one of the leading modern designers of the 20th century.
Prolific during his time and well respected by his contemporaries, some of Locher’s clients included Gertrude Vanderbilt Whitney, Mrs. Benjamin Rogers and Juliana Force. The aforementioned apartments and town homes in New York City, the new Whitney Museum of American Art, and the Hotel Nacionale in Havana, Cuba are examples of some of his largest interior commissions. Locher was also a professor and a special critic at the Parsons School of Design in New York, specializing in advertising and costume design. 
Locher who, from an early age, was a close friend of artist Charles Demuth inherited his estate in 1943, This included 120 E. King Street and the surrounding buildings as well as his unsold watercolours. Locher quickly closed his studio in New York, and moved to Lancaster with his partner Richard Weyand. They lived and worked in the buildings that now house the Demuth Museum until his death in 1956. Robert E. Locher: A Modern Classic features furniture, housewares, costume designs, and other work by this all but forgotten artist who mastered fusing traditional design elements with modern aesthetic that was praised around the world.

1916 April 1
Spring Fashions Number
Cover by Helen Dryden

1916 April 15
Smart Fashions for Limited Incomes
Cover by George Wolfe Plank

1916 April by Helen Dryden

1916 May 1
Brides and Summer Homes
Cover by Helen Dryden

1916 May 15
Travel Number
Cover by Alice de Warenne Little

1916 June 15
Summer Fashions Number
Cover by Helen Dryden

1916 July 15
Suggestions for the Hostess
Cover by Helen Dryden

1916 August 1
London and Paris Number
Cover by George Wolfe Plank

1916 September 1
Millinery Number
Cover by Helen Dryden

1916 November 1
Winter Fashions Number
Cover by Irma Campbell

1916 December 1
Christmas Gifts Number
Cover by Helen Dryden

1917 January 15
Motor & Southern Fashions Number
Cover bu Helen Dryden

1917 February 1
A Forecast of Spring Fashions
Cover by Frank X. Leyendecker

1917 February 15
Spring Millinery Number
Cover by Helen Dryden

1917 March 1
Spring Patterns & New Materials
Cover by Frank X. Leyendecker

1917 March 15
Spring Fashions Number
Cover by Georges Lepape


Arguably one of the most underappreciated Art Deco artists, Georges Lepape was a French artist whose portraiture represents a true milestone in the relationship of fashion and visual arts. Unlike many of his contemporary colleagues, Lepape’s artworks were heavily impacted by the aspects of Orientalism,  Persian miniatures, and the popular theatre aesthetics of the Ballet Russes.
Born in Paris in 1887, Lepape studied at the famous École des Beaux-Arts. In 1910 he exhibited at the Salon d’Automne, where he met the great designer Paul Poiret. They became friends and began working together. In 1911, he illustrated Poiret’s brochure, Les Choses de Paul Poiret.
Shortly after, Lepape left to work for designer Jean Patou, where he illustrated Patou’s collections. During this period he illustrated many magazine covers for the likes of the Gazette Du Bon Ton, Femina, Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar, and Vanity Fair. In 1923 he produced theatre costumes designs for Maurice Maeterlinck’s The Blue Bird. However, after the war, he focused on less fashion-orientated projects, and illustrated for advertising and publishing.


1917 April 5
Smart Fashions on Limited Incomes
Cover by Alice de Warenne Little

1917 May 1
Brides and Summer Homes
Cover by Helen Dryden

1917 May 15
Travel Number
Cover by Georges Lepape