Monday 3 January 2022

Léon Bakst -part 1

1921 Léon Bakst with the ballerina Olga Spessivtseva
© Victoria and Albert Museum, London

Léon Bakst, original name Lev Samoylovich Rosenberg, (1866, Grodno, Russia - 1924, Paris, France), Jewish Russian artist who revolutionised theatrical design both in scenery and in costume. His designs for the Ballet Russes, especially during its heyday (1909 - 14), were opulent, innovative, and extraordinary, and his influence on fashion and Interior design was widespread.

He was interested in the visual arts from an early age, though his first attempt (at about age 16) to gain entrance to the Academy of Arts in St. Petersburg failed. After a year of further study, he was accepted in 1883, and while there he formed a lasting friendship with an older student, the painter Valentin Serov. In 1887, when Bakst submitted for a school competition a Pietà showing the familiar biblical figures - Mary, with her red-rimmed eyes, and the disciples - as impoverished Jews, the school authorities were scandalised and dismissed him.


Little is known of Bakst’s activities in the next few years. He produced a variety of illustrations for magazines and children’s books, and in 1890 he was introduced to Alexandre Benois and his circle, a group known informally as the “Nevsky Pickwickians.” As a member of this group, Bakst met Serge Diaghilev and others who would influence his art and life. During the early 1890s Bakst travelled in Europe, and between 1893 and 1896 he lived in Paris and studied at the Académie Julian and with Jean-Léon Gérôme. After completing his studies in Paris and further travel, he returned to Russia. He was part of a group of artists who formed the Mir Iskusstva (“World of Art”) movement, and with Diaghilev and Benois he founded the journal of the same name (1898–1904). Members of the movement attempted—by means of articles, lectures, and exhibitions—to educate the Russian public about trends, movements, and issues in the arts. Paid work on the magazine freed Bakst from the patronage system and allowed him to focus on graphic arts and painting. 


Under the influence of Savva Mamontov, an artist, industrialist, and patron of the arts, Bakst and others of the Mir Iskusstva group became interested in theatrical production. Bakst began to design scenery in the early1900s, first at the Hermitage Theatre. While involved in theatrical productions, he also showed his work in an enormous traveling exhibition of Russian art organised in 1906 by Diaghilev. In 1909 Bakst went to Paris, where he began designing stage sets and costumes for Diaghilev’s newly formed ballet company.


The first production of the company that came to be called the Ballet Russes was a mixed program with excerpts from Russian operas and ballets, featuring Russian music and dancers. For this program, Bakst designed the spectacular decor and costumes for Michel Fokine’s ballet Cléopâtre (1909; originally named Une Nuit d’Égypte). It was the acknowledged highlight of the evening. This production - with its innovations in dress and emphasis on the Oriental, the violent, and the sensual - provided the template for future Ballets Russes extravaganzas, and Bakst therewith became the company’s main set designer. He followed up this success with another, providing stage and set designs for the wildly popular Le Carnaval and the ballet Schéhèrazade. The latter is generally considered one of the definitive works of the Ballets Russes. Its opulence of colour and texture in stage set and costumes provided powerful support to its sensational story. Bakst further designed decor and costumes for Le Spectre de la rose and Narcisse (both 1911) and for L’Après-midi d’un faune and Daphnis et Chloé (both 1912), and he designed costumes only for Les Papillons (1912) and La Legende de Joseph (1914). Throughout this period, he worked with other companies and in other media as well.


Through these and other works, Bakst achieved international fame. His bold designs and sumptuous colours combined with minutely refined details clearly influenced the fabrics and fashions of the day. Still, after 1912 his influence on and participation in the Ballets Russes began to wane as Diaghilev sought out new artists. Bakst, however, was not lacking for work, having befriended such people as the dancers Anna Pavlova and Ida Rubinstein, both of whom had formed their own companies, and he continued to design sets and costumes for theatre as a freelancer. His penultimate design for the Ballets Russes was the 1917 production of The Good-Humoured Ladies (Les Femmes de bonne humeur). Though Bakst was commissioned to design a future production, Diaghilev rejected his drawings, and the two men, who had quarrelled often and recociled, effectively ended their friendship in 1919. Yet Bakst was engaged in 1921 to design Diaghilev’s London production of Tchaikovsky’s The Sleeping Beauty (also called The Sleeping Princess). It proved to be his last major work. He visited the United States in 1922–23, where, among other projects, he designed a private theatre (restored 1990) for Evergreen House (now the Evergreen Museum and Library), the Baltimore home of railroad magnate and diplomat John Work Garrett and his wife, Alice.


This is part 1 of 9 on the works of Léon Bakst:


1893 Portrait of a Lady
watercolour heightened with white over pencil on artist's board 55.5 x 45.5 cm

1893 Self-Portrait
oil on canvas

1895 Portrait of Isaiah Rosenberg, the artist's brother
pencil on paper

1897 Portrait of a Young Girl
watercolour on paper

1898 Portrait of Alexander Benua
(details not found)
State Russian Museum, St. Petersburg

1900 Le Coeur de la Marquise 
(The Heart of the Marquise):

1900 Costume design for one of the Three Pretenders in the pantomime Le Coeur de la Marquis
graphite and watercolour on laid paper 29.8 x 22.6 cm
Fine Arts Museums of San Francisco, CA

1900 Costume design for the Viscount in the pantomime Le Coeur de la Marquise
graphite and watercolour on laid paper 29.6 x 17.9 cm
Fine Arts Museums of San Francisco, CA

1900 Costume design for the Fortune Teller in the pantomime Le Coeur de la Marquise
watercolour 29.5 x 22 cm
Private Collection

c1900 Costume design for the woman who speaks the prologue and the epilogue (Mlle. Baletta) in the pantomime Le Coeur de la marquise
graphite and watercolour on laid paper 29.7 x 22.5 cm
Fine Arts Museums of San Francisco, CA

1901-07 Don Juan Refute (Don Juan Rejected):

1901 Costume design for Don Juan

1907 Juan Rejected
 watercolour, pen and ink on paper 24 x 13 cm

1907 The Mayor
gouache, watercolour and pen and ink on paper 24x 15 cm

From Don Juan Refute: Don Gaspar
pencil, ink and gouache, heightened with gold, on paper
22.5 x 15.2 cm

1903 Letter by Leon Bakst to his fiancée Ljubov Gritzenko (Tretyakova)

1903-28 La Fée des Poupées (The Fairy Doll):

1903 Costume design for La Fée des Poupées
pencil on tracing paper, squared 36.1 x 27.1 cm
Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York

1903 Costume design for The Fairy Doll, La Fée des Poupées 
pencil, watercolour and gouache on paper 78.5 x 57.5 cm
V&A, London

1910 Costume design for Anna Pavlova's dance 'Pas de Diane' in La Fée des Poupées
hand-coloured lithograph 23.2 x 17.2 cm

c1910 Costume design for La Fée des Poupées

1928 Costume design for La Fée des Poupées

Costume design for La Fée des Poupées

Costume design for La Fée des Poupées

c1904 Costume design for Antigone: Créon
pencil, watercolour and gouache, heightened with gold, on paper 78 x 56 cm

1905 Portrait of Andrei Bely
colour lithograph

1905 Sergei Diaghilev and his Nanny
oil on canvas
State Museum of Political History of Russia

1906 Nude Study
chalk and charcoal on card 71 x 46 cm

1906 Self-Portrait
(details not found)

c1906 Study for the cover of Alexandre Benois' 'The Russian Museum of Emperor Alexander III'
 pencil and ink on paper 21 x 4.5 cm

In May 1907 Bakst travelled to Greece with Valentin Serov, a journey which 'had the profoundest effect on Bakst: it radically affected his palette and inspired his decorative imagination' 

(Alexander Schouvaloff, Dansmuseet catalogue, 1993):


1907 View with Cypress Trees
watercolour on paper

1908 Portrait of Isadora Duncan
pencil on paper

1908 Portrait of Anna Pavlova
charcoal on paper

1908-17 Les Orientales by Michel Fokine:

1917 Costume design for Vaslav Nijinksy as Chinese Dancer in Les Orientales
pencil and watercolour on paper
McNay Art Museum, San Antonio, Texas

Nijinsky in Les Orientales

Nijinsky in Les Orientales

1908 Set design for ballet Fokine's Les Orientales for the Ballet Russes
pencil, watercolour and gouache 73.2 x 43 cm 

c1910 Set design for Les Orientales
pencil and watercolour on paper 37.9 x 44.1 cm
The Morgan Library & Museum, New York

1908-24 La Tragédie de Salomé:

1908 Costume design for Hérode, first guest in
La Tragédie de Salomé
pencil, watercolour and metallic paint on paper
McNay Art Museum, Providence, Rhode Island

1912 Costume design for La Tragédie de Salomé
watercolour, Gouache, and gold paint 27.9 x 21 cm
Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York

1922 Costume design for  La Tragédie de Salomé

1924 Costume design Herod's 5th Guest in La Tragédie de Salomé
pencil, watercolour and gouache, heightened with gold and silver, on paper laid down on board 31.5 x 19.3 cm

1924 Costume design for a slave in La Tragédie de Salomé
watercolour and gouache on paper 49 x 35 cm

n.d. Costume design for John the Baptist in La Tragédie de Salomé
pencil and watercolour on artist's board 27 x 17.5 cm

1909 Le Festin (The Feast):

1909 Costume for Le Festin

Nijinsky in Le Festin

1909 Decorative motif for a 1909 issue of Apollon magazine
pencil and oil on canvas 81 x 65 cm

1909 Michel Dimitri Calvocoressi
pencil on paper 27 x 22.5 cm

1909 Nijinsky
oil on canvas 203.5 x 116.2 cm
MoMa, New York

1909 Portrait of Alexei Tolstoy
pencil, watercolour and ink on paper
State Tretyakov Gallery, Moscow

1909-22 L'Oiseau de feu (The Firebird):

c1909 Costume design for Tamara Karsavina in the ballet L'oiseau de feu
pencil, watercolour and gold paint on paper

1910 Costume design for La Tsarine in L'Oiseau de feu

1913 Costume design for Mikhail Fokin in the role of Tsarevich in L'Oiseau de feu

1913 Costume design for the ballet L'Oiseau de feu 
paint, gouache, watercolour and pencil on paper on board 67.3 x 48.9 cm
MoMa, New York

1922 Costume design for L'Oiseau de feu
pencil, watercolour and gouache, heightened with gold and silver, on paper 67.9 x 48.9 cm

n.d. Costume design for Karsavina in a title role of L'Oiseau de Feu

1909 Costume for the Prince in L'Oiseau de feu
© Victoria and Albert Museum, London

1910 Mikhail Fokin & Tamara Karsavina in first performance of Stravinsky’s L'Oiseau de feu (The Firebird) by Ballets Russes, costumes designed by Leon Bakst

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